“When we talk about food systems, it doesn’t start when we break the ground and plant a seed. It starts with the landscapes we find ourselves on. We don’t think about it but we are surrounded by food,” shared DeLesslin “Roo” George-Warren referencing the wealth of wild plants, mushrooms, animals, and herbs in the natural environment. Reflecting on the disconnect society faces with food, including within the Catawba Indian Nation, George-Warren noted, “One of our biggest issues is the loss of knowledge including how to find it, take care of it, not take too much, and how to prepare it.” Through community organizing, advocacy, and art, DeLesslin “Roo” George-Warren is working with fellow Catawba food system leaders to bring awareness about native food system and building capacity to address the challenges facing his community.

For Indigenous people across the world, this erosion of knowledge is directly tied to the loss of traditional lands, the systematic dismantling and displacement of communities, and the federal control over commodity foods distributed into Native communities. During the Indigenous Leaders caucus at the 2022 Growing Local SC Food Summit, participants prioritized “food sovereignty” as the number one goal. Food sovereignty can be defined as a community having the right to control their own food system farm to table. It is local people having the power to develop a food system that centers the needs of their community. This concept resonated with participants, tying for fourth as one of the top opportunities for South Carolina’s food system. Discussions repeatedly circled around how much potential the state has to feed its communities while supporting its farmers and food system workers. “One of my hopes is that a decade from now we enact the ethic that everyone gets food, everyone gets water, and has shelter,” stated George-Warren. 

These aspirations are as practical and realistic as they are ambitious and complex. As noted in the previous two articles of this series, the dominant food systems in America are part of a globalized system that prioritizes efficiency, convenience, and money above all else. While many lived blissfully unaware of the true cost of this broken system, the pandemic pulled the curtains back to reveal a stark reality. The existing systems have come at the expense of human lives, health and safety, equity, environmental degradation, the erosion of local economies, rural blight, etc. And even with all of these staggering indirect costs, this system does not provide access to healthy or affordable food to almost 20% of the nation’s population. The negative impacts, inequities, and inaccessibility of the food system have incited incredible momentum towards rebuilding of food systems to serve communities instead of corporations. The local foods movement continues to rise up in response to global supply chains and instead offers up alternatives such as “values-based supply chains,” “local food supply chains,” “foodsheds,” and “community food webs”. 

What are the ingredients of a local food system? To start, we can explore the core sectors of a local food system which are typically broken down into the following categories:

• land preservation/access,
• production/harvest,
• processing,
• aggregation/distribution,
• education/marketing,
• retail/restaurants,
• cooking/consumption,
• and waste/recycling (see graphic).

The SC Food Policy Council (Council) is working to bring these sectors together to cross-pollinate and build a bridge between the local and state level. The food system sectors have informed the Council’s committees and initiatives as shown in the graphic. To support individuals and organizations in connecting around local food system issues, the Council facilitates open meetings with their 331 members (including 101 organizations), provides assistance to 11 local food policy councils, and supports cross-sector initiatives like Food is Medicine SC and Growing Local SC. 

While food system’s across the world all share similar sectors outlined above, each system is shaped by key factors including:

• leadership,
• food type and scale of production,
• infrastructure,
• markets,
• workforce,
• transportation,
• educational system,
• organizations/agencies,
• economic development,
• regulations/laws/policies
• and funding investments to name a few.

The variability of food systems is why there is not a silver bullet or one-size-fits all solution to addressing our broken food systems; it is also why place-based solutions have the highest success rates. As you may have noticed, leadership was first on the list; people have an incredible power in the success of a local food system. Leaders like George-Warren that understand the unique perspectives, knowledge, challenges, and opportunities that influence the key factors above within their community. Independently, these leaders play an important role but it is when they are able to plug into a strong network that their impact is amplified. 

The secret sauce of a strong local food system is a well-connected, inclusive, diverse (in ALL the ways), and collaborative network. When leaders from across sectors are well connected from the grassroots level up to the state house, there is an opportunity to create an open line of communication to initiate change and respond quickly during a crisis. In South Carolina there is still a significant disconnect between those on the ground working in local food systems and those in power. When the global supply chain gears ground to a halt during COVID-19, it was the grassroots organizations living and working in the communities on the frontlines hustling in realtime to support communities by adapting overnight. The insight, network, and resources from these organizations could have provided valuable and time sensitive perspectives to local and state leadership but there was no established communication pathway or advocacy platform. For those living in rural communities where disparities were already high and resources limited, the pandemic put even more pressure on grassroots organizations to create their own solutions.

In Marion County where approximately 1 in 4 residents live in poverty, Pick42 Foundation (Neighbors Helping Neighbors) became a hub of activity that literally adapted from day to day. Executive Director Miko Pickett was able to tap into her strong grassroots network to both understand the needs of the community and bring in the right partners to help them get through the pandemic. From vaccine clinics to emergency food relief, their organization evolved weekly to meet community needs. As the emergency aid started to dwindle, Pickett quickly began seeking local, sustainable solutions to ensure residents had food access in the long-term. Before long Pickett began working with local partners to plant a community garden and started reaching out to local farmers. 

Through this journey Pickett was introduced to the SC Food Policy Council and several years later, now serves as the Board Chair. Pick 42’s programs have grown to include a mobile food pantry, five community gardens, the Marion County Food Policy Council, and the “Eat Local Pee Dee” Black farmer network. “The seasons are longer here, the soil is fertile, and our farmers know how to grow…we just want to help them succeed as farm businesses,” comments Pickett. Miko Pickett is the “leadership” factor in the Marion local food system that connects the needs of the local community all the way to leadership at the state level. She became a food system leader out of necessity in order to feed her community despite having no formal training in the sector. Instead, Pickett leveraged her years working in corporate technology and her strong network building skills to support her in recruiting the right partners to serve the community.  

The majority of the food system leaders in my network were also forged in the fires of trial-and-error, sharing a passion for community and a tireless commitment to finding solutions. Based on the success of local leaders like Miko working on the ground to rebuild their food system one relationship at a time, it is clear that our dynamic and complex systems need dynamic and diverse leadership from all backgrounds. The power of social capital, local knowledge, and network building cannot be underestimated. Formally trained or self-taught, this movement cannot be sustained without on the ground food system leaders and their place based solutions gaining the recognition, support, and investment necessary. 

Pickett and George-Warren’s stories are two of hundreds across the state. We have an abundance of data and anecdotes about the local innovation, donations collected, farms saved, and people fed to prove what we’ve championed all along: resilience is found in place- based solutions driven by local leadership and supported by strong networks built on trust. But whether or not this translates into long-term, systemic support for these efforts remains to be seen. As federal funding continues to rain down, there has never been a more important time for state leadership to recognize the value of investing in local food systems. The return on investment could mean a pathway towards resilience in agriculture, increased food access, improved health outcomes, an economic development tool for rural communities, control of our own food supply, workforce development, natural resource conservation, increased tourism, and an opportunity for collaboration across political lines. As other states have demonstrated, creating meaningful systems change takes a groundswell of support with leaders in every county across the state engaged in local networks with direct connections at the state level. Together this network can channel the on-the ground needs into a state-level platform, creating the potential to reach the summit goal: food sovereignty. 

Want to join in the movement? Join the SC Food Policy Council as a member (free), check-out (and add to) the events calendar, sign-up for the Growing Local SC quarterly newsletter, and follow along on social media at @growinglocalsouthcarolina on IG. 

This article was written for Edible Columbia and Edible Charleston.

This four part series written for Edible Columbia and Charleston explores how South Carolina’s food system is evolving to overcome the growing challenges in order to meet the state’s needs. Readers will gain a behind the scenes perspective of the system getting food from the fields and onto forks by walking through the process, people, places, and policies of South Carolina’s local food system.

One of the most pleasant surprises of the pandemic has to be the 20 million Americans who took up gardening, a staggering number not seen in the United States since the Victory Garden movement of the 1940s. In the midst of the COVID-19 chaos, people found refuge in their backyard sanctuaries and experienced the joy and empowerment that comes with growing your own food. The pandemic also pushed consumers to seek sources of food closer to home through local farms and markets when the shelves at the grocery store turned up empty.

Prior to the pandemic, the average middle-class or wealthy American living in a metropolitan area has likely not been given a reason to question the historically cheap, convenient, abundant, and diverse selection of foods. When functioning as designed, the globalized food system has the power to portray a world with no growing seasons, blemish-free food, and an abundance of choice for those with means. In contrast, millions of Americans, especially in rural communities, have long been living with a front row seat to the broken aspects of the food system in which food is inaccessible, unaffordable, or unhealthy.

In 2018, South Carolina ranked 42nd in the nation for poverty, with both rural and urban residents facing food deserts (lack of access to a grocery store) and food swamps (excessive access to fast food/convenience stores). With the onset of the pandemic, the challenges faced by rural and under-resourced communities became problems for everyone. There is nothing like showing up to the grocery store and finding empty shelves to spark an interest in how our food supply chains work (or don’t in this case). Layer by layer, elements of the food system were peeled back and weaknesses revealed. The public began to understand that the food system can be complex, inequitable, unsafe, fragile and unsustainable. Headlines filled with supply chain disruptions, meat packing plants shutdowns, worker deaths, food safety issues, challenges with food access, and endless lines at food banks painted a picture of a broken system. For those living with limited resources, the existing disparities only grew while healthy food choices continued to be unavailable and food unaffordable. According to a poverty study from the Sisters of Charity, nearly half of the state’s residents lived in areas of low food access in 2015, a time when the state had approximately 812 grocery stores. By early 2020, 105 of these stores had closed (12.9%), further reducing access.

As we approach the end of 2022, communities continue to feel the impacts of the pandemic but as a whole, many aspects of the food system have gone back to business as usual with one major exception: price. The 10.4% increase over the last year continues to fuel the conversation around why the US is experiencing the largest 12-month increase in food costs since February 1981. For those in food production, these costs are in many ways tied to an increase in price of inputs, transportation, and labor. Unfortunately, even at the current prices, the system is not capturing the true cost of production. This means that despite the higher sales prices, farmers are still challenged with reaching profitability, an issue the industry has been grappling with for decades. The majority of farm operators nationally have off-farm jobs or rely on the income of a spouse, which accounts for an average of 82 percent of total income for all family farms in 2019. Low profitability means low wages for everyone down the line and resulting in those working in the food supply chain having the highest enrollment in SNAP benefits than any other industry. It doesn’t take a math degree to recognize that this equation is not adding up.

South Carolina has a long agricultural history, with agribusiness currently representing the largest sector in the state with 1 in 9 jobs are in agribusiness with profits of close to $50 billion and 4.7 million acres of productive farmland. With these impressive numbers, it is hard to reconcile the fact that we are also a state in which 1 in 10 South Carolinians face food insecurity and our farmland received the eighth highest national “threat score” (risk of being converted to non-agricultural use) by the American Farmland Trust. While it is tempting to take readers on a journey through the evolution of how our food systems came to be what they are, the time for finger pointing, political posturing and polarization have passed. Less than 1% of South Carolina’s population is still farming (0.7%), and these numbers are actively threatened as the state continues to lose farmland. As the six fastest growing state in the US, American Farmland Trust has projected that in less than 20 years, we will lose an additional 436,700 acres of land to development. Farmland loss is attributed to a wide variety of factors, but for many, it comes down to money. To keep farmland productive, we have to keep it profitable. But history has taught us that this can not be profitability gained at the expense of our local people and places.

Understanding the challenges and recognizing the need for change is only the beginning. Having a clear pathway to change is crucial. In 2013, the Making Small Farms into Big Business report was commissioned to understand the potential for the state to grow their food system. The take home message was clear: the market opportunities are ripe for the picking. It revealed that historically, South Carolina has exported the food it grows and imports the food it eats. According to the study, 90% of food eaten in South Carolina was imported from outside of the state. By shifting production towards local markets, we could reap the benefits from farm to table.

These benefits extend far beyond the sales of local food but have demonstrated the capacity to be a tool for economic development. The growing demand for local food also brings with it a wide range of  physical and social infrastructure. Communities across the country, South Carolina included, have experienced the development of local food hubs, mobile abattoirs (meat processing), community kitchens, direct to consumer software, innovative small farm technology, farming apprenticeships, incubator farms, community gardens, farm to table restaurants, small grocers, food councils, and all of the associated jobs along the local food supply chain. What started as an effort to grow and sell food locally quickly becomes an opportunity to create jobs and increase community connectivity. The national data indicates that local retailers return 52 percent of their revenue back into the local economy, compared to 14 percent for national chain retailers and have a record of employing more locals for longer periods of time. Once heralded as only a trend, the local food movement has earned a permanent place in the food and farming landscape generating an estimated $20 billion dollars nationally.

Members of the SC Food Hub Network have seen local food sales grow from approximately $2 million in 2016 to $4.4 million in 2020. Pre-pandemic, this growth was achieved through robust farm to table focused restaurants, grocers, and wholesale accounts with a focus on creating profitability for SC farmers. Selling products as a premium does however create a barrier in accessing local food, something that was creatively addressed incrementally through gleaning (gathering unsold or unharvested crops for donation) and through grant supported programs.

In a surprising turn of events, COVID-19 actually created a unique opportunity to bridge the gap between local producers and those facing food insecurity. South Carolina food hubs, distributors, food access agencies, and community based organizations partnered to leverage millions of relief dollars to pay farmers for food distributed into local communities. While the Palmetto state was able to provide incredible support for farmers and community members to buy and distribute local food through these partnerships, this is only one part of the system. A long-term strategic approach will need to be holistic and explore the challenges in inequities from land access and farmer training all the way to nutrition education and food waste.

Now begins the hard work of keeping up the momentum and working collaboratively to find place-based, long-term solutions. National policies (i.e. Farm Bill), federal appropriations, allocations, and grants will continue to have significant implications for anyone working in the food system, but we cannot overlook the state level policy, regulation, and investments that have the power to truly elevate or suppress the growth and efficacy within local communities. Rising to meet the challenge is the Growing Local SC local food network, a multi-sector project building off the work of the South Carolina Food Policy Council and the South Carolina Food Hub Network (funded by the USDA with matching funds provided by the SC Department of Agriculture). With nine founding partners and 30 leaders representing everything from public health to farmer training, the network aims to cultivate a thriving, equitable, inclusive, resilient, and just food economy providing access to healthy food for all in South Carolina.

At the heart of this network is a desire to build and strengthen the local food system community in the state to increase awareness, connectivity and collaboration for existing organizations and businesses. The network leaders are interested in elevating the voices of those often missing at the table and ensuring that the path forward creates opportunities for everyone in the state. The network has a wide range of ways to connect from an events calendar, newsletters and Instagram to a listserv and committees. This October, the group will host its inaugural Growing Local SC Food Summit in Greenville, SC to hear from those at every stage of the food system to understand the challenges, opportunities, and priorities for those working on the ground. Stay tuned for the next issue where we will share stories from the people attending the summit and hear their perspective on the future of South Carolina’s food system. Follow along via Instagram @growinglocalsouthcarolina, the website https://www.growinglocalsc.org/, the newsletter, and participate in person at the inaugural Local Food Summit: https://www.opportunitysc.org/food-summit

Nothing stokes the fires of activism like becoming a parent. Passions eroded down to resignation can be quickly reinvigorated by a newly vested interest in the future. As the freshly minted parent of a daughter (a perfect, beautiful, tiny human named Wren) my own desire for a better world has been magnified tenfold. The stakes have been raised for the me to play my part in creating a brighter future for her while ensuring she grows up with strong female role model. 

My convictions on the importance of our food system are shored up with the knowledge that my work in the field will be my legacy to my daughter. If she is to reap what we are sowing in my lifetime, I have an even greater incentive to invest in organizations, projects, and people who share my vision and values for the future.

This spring, thanks to Edible Charleston, I had the opportunity to connect with other local women in the food system to gain insight and perspective on the role they are playing in shaping the future of food. 

FarmHER: How women are shaping the South Carolina food system

Close your eyes, and picture a farmer. There’s a strong chance that you imagined an aged and sun- worn grandfather figure.

But the face of farming is evolving. About one million women are currently running farm-based businesses, representing 30% of the total farmers in the country. And as farmers age out, the next generation is increasingly coming from outside of traditional circles. Individuals with non-agricultural- related degrees, people of color, indigenous people, veterans and members of the LGBTQ community are taking to the fields, and they’re bringing big ideas with them.

According to the National Young Farmers Coalition, these new farmers are more likely to be committed to environmental stewardship and to be advocates for equity and inclusion in the industry. This new wave of farmers is seeking more than a career–they’re after an opportunity to make a difference in their community and in their lives.

“You’re probably not going to get rich farming, but your quality of life is going to be high,” says Danielle Spies, co-owner of Sea Island Savory Herbs on Johns Island, a thriving plant nursery she runs with her business partner, Ella Cowen.

“I really appreciate when people come in and see that we are an all-women’s farm,” Spies says. “I like raising my daughter seeing strong women, and showing her we have the confidence to do it all on our own.”

The two friends purchased Sea Island Savory Herbs in 2013 with the major incentive of having the flexibility of raising their children while growing a strong business. Despite years of working at the farm prior to buying it, the first years were challenging.

“It felt like we had to prove ourselves. There’s pressure to know everything; to have more, grow bigger and look perfect,” Cowen says.

Spies’ advice to farmers getting started is to “surround yourself with people you enjoy working with, do what works best for you and your business, go with the flow and follow your heart.”

Six years later the two still love their jobs, enjoy working together, and have built a successful business that is leveling up the herb game in restaurants and markets throughout the area.

Changes in demographics aren’t the only aspect of agriculture evolving. Farmers in growing numbers are seeking opportunities in urban communities, from empty lots and rooftops to hydroponic tunnels and shipping containers. Traditionally a rural industry centered solely on crop yields, farming has expanded into cities, with urban farmers seeking opportunities for economic development, education and empowerment.

Germaine Jenkins of Fresh Future Farm is one such pioneer, cultivating more than healthy food in the Chicora-Cherokee neighborhood of North Charleston. For Jenkins, her farm not only provides access to healthy food but also teaches farming skills applicable to home gardens or agricultural businesses.

“I want to share so much about what I am learning; to get people’s hands in the dirt and show them it’s not as complicated as we are led to believe,” Jenkins says. Urban agriculture provides many farmers with lower barriers to entry, easier access for customers, opportunities for education and reduced transportation costs.

“Being in the middle of a residential neighborhood is golden because we are where the customers are,” Jenkins says. She also believes it is important for residents in the neighborhood to “see people who look like them growing their food.”

Jenkins is creating opportunities for black farmers to build connections and share best practices with the community by hosting the inaugural SC Black Farmers Conference on March 26. Bringing industry leaders such as Leah Penniman of Soul Fire Farm and author of Farming While Black, Erika Allen of the Urban Growers Collective as well as an impressive roster of local chefs and artisans, the event aims to provide a balance of best practices, networking and celebration. Community is at the heart of Jenkins’ farm, because from her perspective, you can work smarter and not harder by bringing in experts in to expand your operation. “You can’t do everything yourself,” Jenkins says.

With only 2% of the population in agriculture, the industry is in a position to open the doors to all individuals and production methods.

“Before we didn’t have enough markets and now we don’t have enough farmers,” says Helen Fields, co-owner of Joseph Fields Farm on Johns Island. “We need to continue to get more young people involved.” Fields and her husband, Joseph, have been running their farm as partnership since the early 2000s, with Helen handling the business side of the farm while Joseph focuses on production and sales.

“If it wasn’t for mentorship, we wouldn’t be where we are today,” Fields says. “A farmer needs to be affiliated with other farmers and farming organizations because that is your teaching tool. As things change, you need to be prepared.”

Having started one of the first USDA-Certified Organic Farms in South Carolina, the Fieldses have worked hard to keep up with industry trends and they are passionate about mentoring the next generation through farming apprenticeships.

For aspiring farmers, these apprenticeships provide invaluable hands-on experience.

“I was mentored by a very strong-willed woman,” says Jess Martin of her apprenticeship with Casey Price. Price owns Jeremiah Farm & Goat Dairy on Johns Island, where in addition to running a Grade A goat dairy, she also provides mentorship for new farmers interested in livestock.

After gaining invaluable hands-on experience working with animals, Martin became the farm manager at Wishbone Heritage Farms in St. George, where she oversees pasture-raised sheep, hogs, chickens, ducks and cattle. Martin credits Price as well as Celeste Albers of Green Grocer with providing her the support necessary to face the challenges of livestock farming.

“These are women who aren’t afraid to get in there and do the dirty work. I’m lucky to have connections with both of them. Those relationships help me stay confident,” Martin says. As a petite woman of 5 feet 3 inches working with 500-pound hogs, she is often questioned about her ability to handle animals. But she feels that being a woman in the livestock industry is an advantage.

“I think that we are more nurturing and take a more of an intuitive approach to things,” Martin says. “I feel like I can interact with animals without having to rely on physical strength.”

Martin is passionate about pushing her industry towards more humane practices that include quality grazing and feed, which honor the animal and ultimately result in a superior product. As a livestock farmer, Martin wants “to be part of the solution and not part of the problem.”

Agriculture’s capacity to effect positive change is a draw for many new farmers. But if you weren’t raised on a farm, finding the resources and a network to get started is challenging. For Laura Mewbourn, owner of Feast & Flora Farm in Meggett, it came down to finding the right people.

Similar to many new farmers, Mewbourn’s collegiate roots are not agricultural; prior to farming she spent years working in academia.

“I went to college and picked the major I was supposed to pick, and ended up in an office job like I was supposed to. But I would walk past landscapers working and think ‘oh gosh, that looks really nice’ but I never let myself go much deeper than that.”

Upon moving to Charleston, Mewbourn stumbled across the Growing New Farmers Program and decided to explore farming as a potential career. While preparing for the transition from academics to agriculture, she immersed herself in podcasts and read countless books on the life of a modern farmer. Yet it wasn’t until her first few weeks in the program, working with her farm mentor and gaining hands-on experience, that she knew she could physically and mentally be a farmer. Without land to inherit or an experienced farm family to lean on for technical support, Mewbourn looked to other farmers in the local network for help.

“You need to find farmers who understand the position you’re in and who are willing to lend their assistance,” Mewbourn says. In order to build a farm from scratch, she relied on these farmers to provide guidance on everything from plowing the fields to buying equipment. Mewbourn acknowledges that farming is a trade requiring a lifetime of research and learning but at some point you have to take the leap, even if it is a small one.

“At the end of the day, you just have to do it,” Mewbourn says. Three years later, she’s managing a successful farm and hosting apprentices of her own.

The challenges these women have overcome represent the greater obstacles the industry is experiencing as farmers across the country work hard to feed their communities. It’s important that as consumers, we not only support farmers at the market but that we invest in the programs and policies focused on building an equitable, inclusive and resilient food system. If the industry continues to attract hardworking, innovative farmers like these, the future looks bright . . . and delicious.

Original article in Edible Charleston available HERE.

The following organizations are currently seeking qualified candidates. I am posting as a courtesy (yay jobs!) and am not a point of contact for any of these positions. Please utilize the links and instructions provided. 

Alabama Sustainable Agriculture Network Development Director. Location: Birmingham, AL Description is here.

CFSA South Carolina Policy Coordinator. Location: Remote in the Carolinas Description here:https://www.carolinafarmstewards.org/jobs/

Swamp Rabbit Food Hub Food Chief. Location: Greenville, SC. Description is here. 

Swamp Rabbit Cafe and Grocery Accounting Manager. Location: Greenville, SC. Description is here.

Swamp Rabbit Cafe and Grocery Baker. Location: Greenville, SC. Description is here.

Vertical Roots and Amplified Ag, Inc. (Click for descriptions) Industrial Master Electrician – Charleston, SC 
Hydroponic Farmer (PT & FT) – Columbia, SC 

Common Market- Multiple Locations including GA and TX. https://the-common-market.workable.com/

PT MUSC Urban Farm Urban Farm Assistant. Location: Charleston, SC.  “This is a part-time roll paying $15/hour and will mainly facilitate programs of K-12 and Elderly Groups visiting the property.  The person in this role will also help maintain the garden and should be knowledgeable in gardening/horticulture. Contact Jonathan L. Vallentine, Manager – Client Services, Alternative Staffing, Inc. O. 843-744-6040 M. 843-442-3307”

Thornwell’s LushAcres Farm in Clinton, SC, is seeking a Full-Time Farm Director. Applications due by Feb. 4. “We are seeking a hard-working and visionary leader to engage with us in transforming our 300+ acre farm in Clinton, SC, into a thriving financially and environmentally sustainable operation as an integral component of the overall Thornwell mission to serve children, families, and communities.

Thornwell intends for LushAcres to be an exemplary model of creative farm-related entrepreneurship, land stewardship, and community development and is seeking the right person to guide the process of transformation necessary to achieve this goal. 

Those wishing to apply should furnish an up-to-date resume and cover letter addressing the reasons for seeking this position along with salary expectations. We will be accepting resumes until Monday, February 4, or until the position is filled. A first review of resumes and supporting materials will begin in early February. Email for a full description or send information to HR@thornwell.org.”

The metaphor of referring to the operations side of business as “how the sausage gets made” is used with care in the food system because the person you are working with might actually be talking about grinding meat. Whether a metaphor or literal, the reference makes an important observation regarding the messy, unattractive, or even unpalatable aspects of the operations side of a process often done behind closed doors. The use of the metaphor reveals a desire to enjoy the final product while being separated from the details of how it is made, what it is made from, or even who made it. Yet the information age is replacing the desire for closed doors and hidden processes with a demand for transparency, especially when it comes to food.

The resurgence of interest in the food system attracts an overwhelming amount of writers, researchers, film makers, media personalities, and others trying to pull back the curtain to both understand and expose the inner workings of the system feeding us. Unfortunately, many stories are being told by people that are unable to provide a comprehensive, unbiased, or even accurate portrayal of the challenges and opportunities facing the food system. While an incredible amount of good has come from the increased focus on food, it also brings with it a fair share of misinformation and marketing ploys. For many, it is easier to imagine that a clear and specific “bad guy” exists to blame because then we can arm ourselves with a silver bullet, make a clear choice, and absolve ourselves of guilt. In reality, the issues are complex and span far beyond the fields and farmers markets. Learning “how the sausage gets made” involves following the rarely simple and often complex pathway our food takes to get from farm to table. The “food system” is made up of all of the resources, people, equipment, infrastructure, and transportation that allows each of us to enjoy an incredibly diverse and relatively affordable selection of food (see image below).

As someone who identifies as a “Food System Leader,” it is challenging to explain what these types of positions entail, why they are important, and how we can all play a leadership role in the system. I realized that despite the national publications and famous writers, most people want to hear from someone they know and work with, so it is important that we share within our own circles. With that in mind, here is my perspective on the food system, the issues, the opportunities, and a glimpse of my own journey.

Cue my professor voice. With the incredible growth of our world’s population and the globalization of our economy, the process by which we grow and distribute food has become increasingly complex and specialized. In parallel, the number of people actually growing food has steadily been declining over the last century from 21% of the workforce in 1930 to 2% of the workforce in 2012. The combination of the increase in the complexity of the food system and the decline of farmers has led to a disconnection between the general population and those who feed them. Despite on the average person eating three meals a day, few people understand how their food is grown, processed, packaged, transported, and delivered. Even those in the industry find themselves disconnected from other sectors of the industry, a gap in understanding that has continued to grow as the system adapts to meet changing markets, climate, and consumer demands. Although generally fueled with good intentions, those passionate about the food system often perpetuate short-sighted or misinformed headline grabbing stories that create further disconnection and fail to tell the whole story (including sharing the good news).

As someone that spends time with both small to mid-sized “farm-to-table” farmers and large scale conventional commodity farmers, I can tell you that all farmers are facing high risk, tough markets, low profits, and issues with labor and natural disasters. Despite these commonalities, both organic and conventional farmers are positioned against each other, often pushed into promoting their production styles at the expense of other farmers. Not only unproductive, this distraction results in people missing the deeper issues facing the broader food system. Regardless of production styles, farmers are passionate people whose businesses typically are embedded in their lifestyle and values centered around serving the community the best way they know how. In the United States, 96.4 percent of the crop-producing farms in the U.S. are owned by hardworking families living and working in our communities–not faceless corporations or cute hobby operations. The industry in-fighting and lack of operational understanding creates many barriers to developing policies, programs, and markets that ensure a healthy, equitable, and profitable food system. With only 2% of the workforce in agriculture, we need to find ways to support every single farmer in the industry and with the current Farm Bill under review, now is the time to advocate for the programs supporting the people feeding us.

When talking to people about the food system, the following topics often come as a surprise: 

Agriculture is an essential economic driver. We all rely on agriculture in our everyday lives, even if we do not realize it. Specialty crops (fruits, veggies, nuts), meat, dairy, grains, legumes, and eggs are only a few of thousands of ways agriculture supports our daily lives. Commodity crops like corn, soy, and sugar beets are not only used in food but also processed into products and chemicals that are utilized in everything from laundry detergent and cosmetics to tires and upholstery while fiber crops like timber and cotton provide our clothing and paper products. According to the USDA, Agriculture, food, and related industries contributed $992 billion to U.S. gross domestic product (GDP) in 2015, a 5.5-percent share. The output of America’s farms contributed $136.7 billion of this sum—about 1 percent of GDP. These numbers only tell part of the story, with many of the newer and only recently tracked localized food system developments (farmers markets, CSAs, food hubs, etc.) increasing revenue streams for those in the food system and creating jobs in communities across the US.

Immigrants feed America. Currently 72% of farmer workers are immigrants. The United Fresh Produce Association, a produce industry trade group, estimates the industry relies on about 1.5 million to 2 million immigrants. Of these millions, The Department of Labor’s National Agricultural Workers Survey estimates that at least 46% of these workers are illegal.

Transportation and logistics are key. Did you know that the average grocery store only stocks enough food for three days? The entire food system is built around steady shipments of food to meet the consumer demands. Current store models give customers they can have almost anything year-round, including perishable products, even if it means shipping products thousands of miles. In parallel, 23.5 million American’s live in Food Deserts where food is not accessible or Food Swamps where only unhealthy options are available and transportation is the top listed barrier to access in both urban AND rural communities. With the increased demand for local food, the industry is also rebuilding the value chains capable of securing and transporting large and consistent volumes of locally sourced food to serve institutions such as schools and hospitals.

Agriculture lands are in transition. As the average age of farmers in American continues to rise (currently 58), many operators are reaching the point in which they must determine how to manage the transition of their land. According to the USDA, between 2015 and 2019, 93 million acres of land are expected to be transferred. In addition, approximately 39 percent of the 911 million acres of farmland in the contiguous 48 States is rented. Land transition and access have been pushed to the top as one of the key agricultural issues over the next decade.

The face of farming is changing. According to the National Young Farmers Coalition, new farmers increasingly come from non-farm families and are interested in diversified fruit, vegetable, and livestock operations using some type of organic production methods. The group has also seen an increase in people of color and women entering the industry. And it is not only the people that are changing but the places. Urban farming, market gardens, and micro-farms are all on the rise. While the US Census has not previously recording urban agriculture, According to the The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations reports that 800 million people worldwide grow vegetables or fruits or raise animals in cities, producing an astonishing 15 to 20 percent of the world’s food.

Farmers are conservationists. Farmers currently manage millions of acres of land and have a vested interest in stewarding the natural resources on which they rely. This has created incredible opportunities for open land conservation and habitat stewardship. With support from agencies such as the USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS), farmers can have their property evaluated for conservation needs and participate in programs to plant pollinator habitat, cover cropping, bird habitat restoration, livestock fencing, irrigation, and support for no-till production. These programs are popular among conventional and organic farmers alike and are adopted by farms of all sizes. According to the USDA, roughly 40 percent of combined acreage of corn, soybean, wheat, and cotton were in no-till/ strip-till in 2010-11 (89 million acres per year), with adoption rates higher for some crops (e.g., soybeans) and some regions (e.g., the Southern Seaboard).

Jobs growth in the industry outpaces qualified workers. Based on a report from Purdue University and the USDA, the agriculture and life sciences field needs qualified an estimated 60,000 candidates while qualified graduates are projected closer to 35,0000. Demand will be strongest for plant scientists, water-resource scientists and engineers, farm animal veterinarians, and precision ag and pest control specialists, among other positions.

Why I am I so excited about working in the Food System?

Capacity for social change.  Every stage of the system is full of abundant opportunities for positive change, empowerment, and equity. As you can see from some of the key issues above, the food system needs support for educated consumers, advocates, and policy makers at every level.

Opportunities for innovation and a path for career growth. This is an industry experiencing an incredible growth and transformation. The sector is extremely interdisciplinary with an array of roles from engineers and logistics planners to compost processors and seed growers and is no longer confined to small towns in rural communities but also lives in urban cores and in laboratories.

So what does a career in Food Systems look like? 

After spending several years working in other industries, my journey into the food system started from the ground up, literally. I have had the pleasure of working as a farm apprentice with Joseph Fields Farm (aka mentor for life) and Our Local Foods at Thornhill Farm before joining the awesome team at Lowcountry Local First. During my time at LLF, I had the opportunity to work with Jamee Haley to develop the Growing New Farmers Program to train aspiring farmers and food system leaders, grow the Eat Local Program to help consumers connect to local products, launch the Dirt Works Incubator Farm to support new farmer businesses, and provided training and support for hundreds of small to mid-sized diversified farmers. This experience gave me a solid platform to launch Wit Meets Grit.

During the last year and half at Wit Meets Grit I have had the pleasure to expand this work to support efforts across South Carolina and the broader Southern Region. Highlights include:

• Landscape Assessment of the Southeast to determine opportunities for Local Food Procurement through hospitals with Pavlin Consulting and Healthcare Without Harm.
• Development of the Bamberg County Health Coalition with Southeastern Housing and Community Development.
• Development of the South Carolina Food Hub Network with Growfood Carolina and Daisa Enterprises.
• Development of the SC Local Food Value Chain Mapping Project with SC Food Policy Council, College of Charleston, and SC Department of Agriculture.

If the month of January is any indication, this year is one for the books. Kicking off the year, I had the pleasure of traveling to Nashville Tennessee for the National Farm Bureau Conference and was awarded as a Top Ten Excellence in Agriculture National winner. This was followed by a trip to Chattanooga, TN for the Southern Sustainable Agriculture Working Group Conference where I presented on Funding Fundamentals for non-profits, helped with conference social media, and attended the annual SSAWG board meeting.

Upon return from Tennessee, I checked in with the team working on the Local Mapping Project, touched base with The Bee Cause Project, spent a day facilitating the SC Food Hub Network, and made a trip up to Columbia for a town hall with USDA Secretary of Agriculture Sonny Perdue and SCDA Commissioner of Agriculture Hugh Weathers to share input into the new Farm Bill.

Wrapping up the month, I travelled to Denmark, SC to facilitate the Bamberg County Health Coalition before returning to Columbia for a quarterly SC Food Policy Council board meeting and a visit with SC Farm Bureau.  While my days are not often spent in the literal fields anymore, I really enjoy digging into the entire process that gets food from the farm to the table.

Thank you to everyone supporting my journey as a Food System Leader, an adventure I hope to continue for decades to come!